September 20 – Jeanne D'Arc and Fine Arts in Rouen

Entertainment at the Sunday market in Rouen

We started the morning off in rather hectic fashion.  We went down a road, next to the Cathedral, to find a restaurant for breakfast. On the other side of the cathedral courtyard, there was a large farmer’s market.  It seemed that entire population of Rouen was in attendance.  Needless to say, seats in a restaurant were not readily available.  Eventually we stopped in bakery and got some pizza that we took to a small park next to a church and had a picnic

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Embarkation of the Inhabitants of Pargaart by Appolodore Callet

We then went to the Museum of Fine Arts.  The large museum is considered the most important collection of art in France outside of Paris.  It has wings dedicated to European styles that were popular in each century from the 1600’s until today.  There were works by Rubens, van Dyck, Renoir and Monet.  Our favorites seemed to be from the 17^th century, because of their realistic detail.

On our way back from the Museum, Marg had a spill on the cobblestone sidewalk.  She is bruised and shaken up, but other than a very sore thumb it appears she escaped serious injury.  She decided to stay in the hotel room and rest for the afternoon. We hope she doesn't have a broken a bone in her hand.

In the afternoon I went to the Histoire Jeanne d'Arc exhibit in the old archbishop’s house which is attached to the cathedral. In the second half of the Hundred Years War, English forces occupied much of northern France, including Normandy and its capital Rouen. After Joan had inspired a lightning series of successes against the English army south along the Loire, she was captured by French forces loyal to the King of Burgundy and ransomed off at vast price to the English. Joan was tried by French churchmen in English-ruled Rouen. Convicted of heresy she ended up burned at the stake here in 1431.

A new museum in honour of Joan of Arc d’Arc, Historial Jeanne d'Arc is housed in the Archbishop's Palace, just next to the Rouen Cathedral. There was an audio/visual exhibit that told the story of Joan of Arc through the transcripts of her second trail for heresy.  Twenty-five years after her execution, an inquisitorial court authorized by Pope Callixtus III examined the original trial formed by the French allies of the English king, debunked the charges against her and pronounced her innocent declaring her a martyr.  Since that time she has stood as a symbol for French nationalism.

Poster using Joan of Arc as an iconic symbol

The lineup was huge and moved very slowly.  It turned out that this weekend is a special weekend for arts in France and most of the museums were open for free.

For dinner we went to a seafood restaurant called Le TerreNeuvas.  Marg had a shell fish appetizer which had snails, clams, mussels, prawns and some other objects that we have no idea what they were.  For entree she had duck, while I had sea base.  Both were excellent.  We had a Brouilly wine that was very good.  For dessert Marg had an apple tart that was preceded by a cheese filled pastry and I had a local apple brandy know as Calvados.  I’m not a brandy drinker and I found it way too strong for my tastes.

Sometimes you just stumble upon an unforgettable experience.  Such was our good luck tonight.  As we were on our way back to the hotel we walked by the cathedral.   There was a fantastic sound and light show being projected onto the front edifice of the cathedral.  How they could project such clear three dimensional images onto to irregularly shaped objects such as the walls of the cathedral is amazing.  It has to be seen to be believed.