September 19 - Arriving In Normandy - Rouen

We left Paris today to start our journey across Normandy and Belgium.  Our first stop was Rouen, which is a seventy-five minute train ride north of Paris.  The scenery wasn’t all that great along the way as the railway tracks wind along the Seine river which is mostly populated with small factories. 

Downstream from Paris on the Seine Rover  Rouen has evolved into the provincial capital and commercial centre of Normandy.  The Anglo-French kings kept a deep affection for the city. William the Conqueror held court here. Richard the Lionhearted was crowned Duke of Normandy in Rouen. During the 100 Years War between England and France it was the capital of English occupied France and the place where Joan of Arc was placed on trail and convicted and the executed.

In medieval times, lords and merchants of the city supported the building of great religious buildings. Lined up in a row going through the centre of town is a string of impressive churches. Victor Hugo famously described Rouen as the city of ‘a hundred spires’.

We are staying at the Mercure Rouen Centre Cathedrale, which is a modern European hotel chain.  The room is nice and comfortable but again it is small in keeping with the local standards. 

Rouen Cathedral

We are located about a block away from the Rouen Cathedral.  This was the first stop on our walk around the old town. There has been a church on this site for 1500 years.  The central spire was world’s tallest structure during the 1870’s.  The current structure is about 600 years old. The most important tomb in the church is that of English and Norman king, Richard the Lion Hearted.

The most famous paintings of the cathedral were done by the Impressionist artist Claude Monet, who produced a series of paintings of the building showing the same scene at different times of the day and in different weather conditions. The estimated value of one painting is over $40 million.

One of the spires is called the Butter Tower.  Its name comes from the fact it was financed by merchants who wanted the churches permission to continue to eat butter during lent.

In one section of the church there is a photo display on the reconstruction of the church after the second world war.  It was first bombed by the Germans in 1940 during their invasion of France and then it was bombed again in 1944 by the Allies as a prelude to the D-Day invasion.  

Drum corps at children's festival at the Roeun Cathjedral

Outside of the cathedral there was a children’s fair going on.  The square was filled with tents imploring children to sign up for their clubs and activities, such as dancing, singing, gymnastics and one for playing hockey.  Yes Rouen has a professional hockey team, known as the Dragons.

When we arrived there was a drum corps, entertaining the crowd.  They were quite energetic but the music became very monotonous after awhile.

Shoppers on the Rue de Gros Hortage

We then walked into the old part of the city.  There are several pedestrian only streets with many stores occupied by major brand retailers. The streets are filled with Saturday shoppers.

Along the main pedestrian lane you come across a huge ornate clock tower or l'hortage.

At the end of Rue de Gros Hortage, you come the place where the old market used to be.  It was here Jeanne D'Arc was burned at the stake.  This is now where all the good restaurants and bars are located.  

There is a new church located in the center of the market square, dedicated to St. Joan D’Arc, which has a very interesting design.

Church of St Joan of Arc

Store on the Rue de Gros Hortage

The buildings are mix of architectural styles.  There many older buildings with wooden frames that you would see in the Alps or Amsterdam. There are buildings that resemble the style that is prevalent in Paris.  Of course because of the massive damage inflicted on the city during the second world war there are many modern buildings scattered in the old city.

It is frosh week at the university here in Rouen.  We saw several groups of students doing various group activities such as tomato fights.

For supper we went to a restaurant call Pascaline, which featured Normandy styled food.  It was highly rated by one of the web sites we’ve been using to find good places to dine.  Unfortunately it turned out to be  a family restaurant with only average food and very noisy.