October 21 - The End Is Near

So it ends, not with a bang but with a whimper.  We left Paris for Roissey, which is close to Charles de Gaulle airport.  We are stayed at the Millennium Hotel which is rated between a four star hotel and two and a half stars.  I would give it two and half stars.

The reception was inviting and bright and the front desk staff are polite and efficient.  The room was unfortunately showing its age.  Although it was clean, it was very worn in many places.

Also the internet was not available.  I tried many configurations but none of them would allow me to connect to their network.  They keep saying that they had contacted their technical support but they wouldn't allow me to talk to them, which might have enable me to resolve this problem.  Luckily the Best Western next store had a strong signal and I was able to connect through them.

The restaurant is an Irish Pub and the food was better than your average airport hotel.  In fact Marg thought the dessert was as good as last nights birthday treat.

Marg has started coming down with the cold that is going around.  She thought she had beaten the odds but the bug caught her at the last moment.

We heard from Sue and Dave and they made it back to London Ontario safely.  They've not been able to shake this cough and cold, so they are going to see their doctor.

Tomorrow we are off the Toronto and then to Ottawa for a wedding.

It has been a blast.

October 20 - Marg's Birthday

This is our last full day in Paris.  It is hard to believe that more than five weeks has gone by since we arrived in France.  We have no regrets though.  We've seen all we wanted to see, done everything we wanted to do and experienced a vacation of a lifetime.

Today is Marg’s birthday.  So she decided that she wanted to go Montmartre to see the artists and have lunch at an outdoor bistro.  Later she wanted to take a stroll underneath the Eiffel Tower.  This would be followed with a nice dinner to complete the day and the trip.

We went to Montmartre by Metro.  It was a little scary because we were given the once over by a gang of thieves / pickpockets.  When three of them followed us from the entrance tunnel to the station platform, we stared at them and they left us alone.  I guess they realized that element of surprise would be lacking and the platform was too crowded to try anything violent.

Crime in Paris is similar to that in most large cities. Violent crime is relatively rare in the city center. Pick pocketing is by far the most significant problem. In addition to purses and wallets, smart phones and small electronic devices are particular targets. In Paris, pickpockets are commonly children under the age of 16 because they are difficult to prosecute. Pickpockets are very active on the rail link from Charles de Gaulle Airport to the city center. You may want to consider using a shuttle service or one of the express buses to central Paris rather than the RER. In addition, passengers are often targeted on Metro Line 1, which traverses the city center from east to west and services many major tourist sites. Schemes to distract and rob victims, such as asking if you would sign a petition or take a survey, are common and change often. A frequent method is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbances, while an accomplice pickpockets a backpack or a purse. Thieves may time their pickpocket attempts to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim trapped on the departing train.

Many thefts also occur at the major department stores where tourists may leave wallets, passports, and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions. Thieves use popular tourist sites and congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums such as the Louvre, and the area surrounding Sacré Coeur Basilica in Montmartre are all favored by pickpockets and snatch-and-grab thieves.

The area around the Moulin Rouge, known as Pigalle, requires extra security precautions to avoid becoming a victim. Pigalle is an adult entertainment area known for sex shows, prostitution, and illegal drugs. Unsuspecting tourists have run up exorbitant bar bills and been forced to pay before being permitted to leave. Les Halles and the Bois de Boulogne are other areas in Paris where extra security precautions are warranted after dark.

When you get off the subway at Montmartre, you need to be in good shape.  The elevators are broken so you need to climb about one hundred steps to get out of the station and on to the street.

Artist in Montmartre

It was cold and damp at Montmartre, so eating outside became a non-issue.   So did getting our portraits done.  We hadn't thought about how we would transport the sketch around Paris without it getting torn or wet.

We walked around Montmartre for about an hour, just looking at the art galleries and painters who were braving the elements.  We even passed a fashion photo shoot in one of the small passageways.

We then went to the Opera district for lunch.  We ate the Manior Cafe.  I only mention this because we saw the most disgusting display of hygiene there.  The manager took the bread from the basket of a recently vacated table and put it into the bread basket that would be used at the next available table.  With half of Paris coughing and sneezing this borders on just plain stupid.

Atrium in Galeries Lafayette

After that we walked over to the Galeries Lafayette.  This is a huge mall where every famous designer has their own kiosk.  As you would expect the prices are out of this world.  What makes this so amazing though is when you wonder through the kiosks you enter a spectacular atrium.  The atrium is breathtaking in its beauty.  The roof is a massive blue stained glass piece of art.  Each of the five balconies is surrounded by ornate gold railings.

Atrium in Galeries Lafayette

To conclude the afternoon we strolled down the Champs des Mars and had a wonderful time just relaxing and staring at the Eiffel Tower.  I hope it is still standing when our great grandchildren are old enough to visit.  The Eiffel Tower has that special magic.

For dinner with we were joined by Joan and Rocky at the LeBistrot de Maëlle et Augustin II.  Our wine was from a vineyard near Tournon that we could see from the cruiseship.  It was a Croze-Hermitage from Paul Jaboulet Aîné.  Marg had scallops, with mushrooms and seasonal vegetables cooked in a lavender broth that turned the vegetables purple.  It tasted a lot better than it looked.  I had cod seasoned with fennel, dill and honey and cooked over a white bean paste.  Both meals were really good.  Joan had crispy Duck and Rocky had lamb.  I’m not sure how they would rate their meals.  For dessert Marg had this huge chocolate parfait/pudding/cake.  She didn’t stop smiling the entire time she ate it.

Seafood in a lavender broth

October 19 - Back In Paris

We are leaving Nice today and flying back to Paris. I had to repack my suitcase at the check in area because because it was 0.1Kg over the limit. That is how you define pain in the butt.

Nice airport is supposed to be one of the largest airports in France, but it was very small and poorly laid out.  Once we got into the departure area from the security check, we were jammed into a small common area with hundreds of other passengers and there was only one small cafe on departure floor.

About an hour before our flight left, they announced that our departure gate was in another area.  Low and behold as we entered this area we arrived in a modern airport terminal with restaurants and stores.

Joan & Marg relaxing at Hotel de Latour Maubourg

We arrived in Paris in the middle of the afternoon and are staying in Hotel de Latour Maubourg a small but quaint hotel near the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides.  The rooms are small but they have very distinct decor.  It is almost like you are staying in a museum. 














I went out to buy some water and Coke. After walking for about twenty minutes I did find a store, but along the way I passed multiple cheese stores, bakeries, butchers and enough wine stores to stay full and satisfied for weeks.  Just no corner stores to buy water.

We met Rocky and Joan at the hotel and we went to dinner at the Bistrot du 7ème.  It was a wonderful dinner in a very swanky restaurants. I had beef and Marg had fish with a good Bordeaux wine.  It was unfortunate that their credit card reader was defective, so in order to pay our bill, I had run over to the ATM across the road and get some cash.  Cash, what a novel idea.

October 18 - Monaco

Having been in Nice last year for about a week, we decided to take a trip to Monaco for the day.

The Principality of Monaco is a sovereign city-state located on the French Riviera. France borders the country on three sides while the other side borders the Mediterranean Sea. Monaco has an area of 2 square kilometres and a population of about 37,800; it is the second smallest and the most densely populated country in the world. Monaco's most popular district is Monte Carlo. Although small, Monaco is very old and quite well known, especially because of its status as a playground for the rich and famous.

Monaco is a principality governed under a form of constitutional monarchy, with Prince Albert II as head of state. Although Prince Albert II is a constitutional monarch, he wields immense political power. The House of Grimaldi have ruled Monaco, since the thirteenth century.  The official language is French, but English are widely spoken and understood. Despite Monaco's independence and separate foreign policy, its defense is the responsibility of France. However, Monaco does maintain two small military units.

Economic development was spurred in the late 19th century with the opening of the country's first casino, Monte Carlo, and a railway connection to Paris.Since then, Monaco's mild climate, splendid scenery, and upscale gambling facilities have contributed to the principality's status as a premier tourist destination and recreation center for the rich and famous. The state has no income tax, low business taxes, and is well known for being a tax haven.

Monaco has the world's highest average salary at $190,000, and an unemployment rate of 2% with over 48,000 workers who commute from France and Italy each day.  According to the CIA World Factbook, Monaco has the world's lowest poverty rate and the highest number of millionaires and billionaires per capita in the world. For the fourth year in a row, Monaco in 2012 had the world's most expensive real estate market, at $7,400 per square foot.

You know you are in the high rent district when you see the real estate offices.  There was one listing for a four bedroom bungalow with a sea view for only 16,000,000€.  Also we passed a broker's office that specializes in selling executive jets.

Monaco harbour

We have been to the casino, so we went to royal palace instead.  It is a grand old building that is still occupied by the Prince of Monaco and his family.  Tourists are able to visit some of the older sections of the palace, including the throne room.  Marg thought that the furnishings were gaudy and over the top.  It reminded her of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s house in the Memphis, because the colours were depressing.  She was disappointed that it didn't display the style of the late Princess Grace Kelly.

The small village on top of the hill that adjoins the palace is filled with shops and restaurants.  I don’t know if anyone lives there.

We went back to Nice for supper and ate at a restaurant called Cafe de Nice.  It was a relaxing restaurant with good food.  Marg had a fish melody and I had duck.  We had a local wine from the Nice area that was OK but we’ve been spoiled by Scenic Cruises.  It may take several more meals to come back to earth. 

October 17 - Nice

Hard to believe but twenty months after we put down our first payment, our French River Cruise is over.  These two weeks went by so fast it became a blur.  Scenic promised us a five star experience and they did not let us down.  The boat was spotless, the food was outstanding, the excursions were wonderful and the staff was exceptional.

This may sound strange but despite all the great food, I think I’m going to miss the chocolate cookies that were out for each lunch, the most.

We said our goodbyes to the staff.  We are going to miss our waiter Ricardo and his assistance Sabrina. Danella and Anna who worked the lounge and got us our drinks will also be missed. Also Ishmael, who is a dead ringer for Sheldon on the Big Bang Theory and always had a big smile on his face, will be missed. Of course there were other staff, but I won’t bore you with a roster list.

Marg with Ishmael

Marg & the Captain

Of course we also had to say our goodbyes to our travelling companions. But as the cruise director said, don't be sad the trip is over, be happy you took it.

Upon debarkation, Scenic Cruises bused us from Tarascon to the Nice airport.  It was a scenic drive with mountains to the north of us and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.  It took about four hours.

John and Ellen

I really feel for Ellen and John as they head home to Australia.  They had to take the Scenic bus from Tarascon to Nice, which is about a four hour drive.  Then they had to catch a flight to Frankfurt which connected them to a flight to Singapore.  After a night’s layover they were flying to Sydney.  This is about twenty one hours of flying.  This obscene schedule is the norm for Australians.

Rocky and Joan flew to Paris from Nice.  We will catch up to them there on Monday evening.  Sue and Dave are staying in Nice for a few days before they fly home.  We will be staying in Nice for two nights before going back to Paris for Marg’s birthday.

Sue and Dave

Rock and Joan

A close bond has developed between Dave and Rocky !

Marg & Brian

Our cab ride from the Nice airport to our hotel was interesting.  The cab had only two speeds, Mach 1 and faster.

Nice is the fifth most populous city in France with a population of about 1 million people.The natural beauty of the Nice area and its mild Mediterranean climate came to the attention of the English upper classes in the second half of the 18th century, when an increasing number of aristocratic families took to spending their winter there.

We are staying at the Ambassador Hotel.  The Ambassador is a nice boutique hotel that is located about a block from the seaside boardwalk called the Promenade des Anglais. For the local inhabitants, La Prom has become a favorite place for bicyclists, baby strollers, and whole families who can be seen out for a stroll along the Promenade. It has also become a favorite place for skateboarders and in-line skaters. We went for a long walk on the Promenade.  There still some people swimming and sunbathing.

We then went to the old town where Marg finally found a necklace that she liked.  It is silver.  During our walk we meet several people from the river cruise, who are also staying in Nice for a couple of days.

The cold that spread throughout the ship has finally caught up to me.  So for dinner we went to a cheap, middle of the road restaurant called the VIP Grill.  What a shock when the bill arrived.  I’ve gotten quite used to the all inclusive service on the boat.

All the bars are showing the France .vs. Australia rugby match from the World Cup in England. Unfortunately the French are getting their collective butts kicked.

October 16 - St. Remy

Today is the last full day on board the Scenic Sapphire.  It has been a quick two weeks.

In the morning we went on an excursion to Saint-Remy-de-Provence.  It was a quaint little village, just north of the Alpilles mountains that was home to Nostradamus, a reputed sixteenth century seer who published collections of prophecies that have since become famous worldwide.

There are also the ruins of Roman village of Glanum that stood here two thousand years ago.

Cloister in St. Paul de Mausolee

This small little town is home to the St. Paul de Mausolee, a psychiatric hospital where Vincent Van Gogh went for treatment for what is now consider to be bi-polar disease.  The hospital is still an active facility today, but the residence where is Van Gogh lived and its associated gardens are now a tourist site.

In 1889 van Gogh voluntarily entered the asylum of St. Paul. Saint-Paul began as a monastery in the 12th century but was converted into an asylum in the 19th century.








Van Gogh was initially confined to the immediate asylum grounds and painted the world he saw from his room, such as ivy covered trees, lilacs, and irises of the garden. Through the windows Van Gogh could also see an enclosed wheat field, subject of many of his paintings. As he ventured outside of the asylum walls, he painted what he saw as the characteristic of Provence. Over the course of the year, he painted about 150 canvases.

During his time in St. Paul de Mausolee, Van Gogh painted many of his most famous paintings including Starry Night.  During our walk through the town and the residence, our guide showed us the view from which many of his paintings are taken.  

As an interesting sideline, our guide told us of how one of Van Gogh’s doctors received some of his paintings for his fee.  Because Van Gogh was not popular at the time, he used these paintings as wallboards in his barn.  Of course after his death when his paintings became popular and very expensive to buy, these paintings had been destroyed.

Today the current patients use painting as one of their therapies and the best of the paintings are on sale at the gift shop.

Aries along the Rhone River

In the afternoon we went on a slow cruise down the rest of the Rhone River to Aires.  Aires is an ancient Roman town, with its own Roman Coliseum.  This site is still used for bull fights, two thousand years after it was built. People who went there instead of St. Paul de Mausolee where upset with their guide.  She was not very informative and the people missed out on a traditional "running of the bulls" that was taken place in town.

For dinner we were all invited to L’Amour restaurant again.  We had another six course dinner.  It was the same menu that we had early in the trip at this restaurant.  I’m not complaining because the food was delicious.

October 15 - End of the Rhone River

Winter has arrived early in Europe.  Here is southern France, the morning temperature was 4 and with the Mistral winds still blowing there must have been a wind chill.  In northern Europe there has been snow.  Thank goodness we did bring some heavier clothes.   Mistral winds are supposed to last three days, but this episode is only going to last for another couple of hours and then we should be fine. 

We went on an excursion to the Rhone River delta, which is called La Camargue.  With an area of over 930 square kilometers the Camargue is western Europe's largest river delta. Here went to a wild bird sanctuary and small village on the Mediterranean Sea called Saintes-Mariesde La Mer.  Oh and guess what, this is another UNESCO Heritage site.

Flamingos in Camargue National Park

The Camargue National Park, we saw large flamboyance of Flamingos.  It was hilarious as one flamingo would start walking in one direction and suddenly all the flamingos would start walking in the same direction until another flamingo would reverse direction and again it would be followed by the rest of the flamingos.  It is believed that over 400 species of birds and has been identified.

Also in the Camargue there are thousands of white horses, which are indigenous to the delta.  It seems that each farmer has a stable of these ponies and each pasture is filled with them.  Also bloodless bull fighting is popular and the area has its own breed of bull.  This black bull is small but has very sharp horns and is extremely fast.

The church in Saintes Maries de la Mer has particular significance in the Christian Church.  The three saints Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacobe, are believed to be the women who were the first witnesses to the empty tomb at the resurrection of Jesus. After the Crucifixion of Jesus,  the three Maries were said to set sail from Alexandria, Egypt with their uncle Joseph of Arimathea and landed in the local harbour. In the 15th century, someone "discovered" the relics of Mary Jacobé and Mary Salomé.  The 500th anniversary of this event was celebrated in the 20th century by Pope John XXIII.

The Gypsy culture is quite entrenched in this area of France.  The town is also a pilgrimage destination for the Roma , who gather yearly for a religious festival in honor of Saint Sarah. Dark-skinned Saint Sara is said to have possibly been the Egyptian servant of the three Marys. In another version, Sara was a local woman who welcomed the three Marys on their arrival.

Shopping in Saintes Maries de la Mer

This village has a population of 2,000 and I think everyone is a shop keeper or restaurateur.

Tonight was the captain’s farewell dinner.  It was another seven course dinner.  Marg had a lobster tail on Pappardelle with Asparagus for an entree while I had Chateaubriand in Port wine sauce and Potato Gratin.  We both had baked Alaska for dessert.

As is the tradition on cruises the entire staff was invited into the dining room and saluted by the passengers.  We've become very reliant on some of the staff and this was a nice opportunity to thank them.  Of course we’ll be handing envelops tomorrow to show our appreciation.

Sabrina, Ricardo, Marg and Brian

After dinner we had a Gypsy band entertain us in the lounge.  One of the guitarist was a former member  of the Gypsy Kings, which is a world famous flamenco music band from this region.  Watching the rhythm guitarist play was amazing.  His hand moves so fast it is just a blur. 

October 14 - Avignon

The mistral wind continues to blow.  I’m not sure how strong it is but I’m sure that they are exceeding sixty kilometers / hour.  When I was at the top of the Rocher des Dome this afternoon, I felt that I was going to be blown over.  We were told that Mistral wind is most intense in Avignon along the Rhone River.

The change in air pressure when the Mistral wind blows can affect the mood of people in the area. There is an old Napoleonic law that states that a plausible defense for murder is the fact that mistral winds have been blowing for more than three days in a row.  

The cold virus has claimed more victims.  Both John and Rocky are down.

This morning we went on an excursion to Pont-du- Gard and Uzès.

 

Aqueduct at Pont-du-Gard

Pont-du-Gard is a ancient Roman aqueduct that crosses the River Gardon is two thousand years old.  It is still standing and is an outstanding example of Roman engineering.   The aqueduct provided water from a spring in Uzès and moved it to the village of Nimes over a fifty kilometer route.

Because of the uneven terrain between the two points, the mostly underground aqueduct followed a long, winding route that called for a bridge across the River Gardon. The Pont du Gard is the highest of all elevated Roman aqueducts

The bridge has three tiers of arches, standing 49 metres high. The whole aqueduct descends in height by only 17 metres over its entire length, while the bridge descends by a mere 2.5 cm , a gradient of only 1 in 3,000, which is indicative of the great precision that Roman engineers were able to achieve, using only simple technology. The aqueduct carried an estimated 200,000 cubic metres of water a day to the fountains, baths and homes of the citizens of Nîmes. The lack of maintenance after the 4th century meant that it became increasingly clogged by mineral deposits and debris that eventually choked off the flow of water.

After the collapse of the Roman Empire and the aqueduct's fall into disuse, the Pont du Gard remained largely intact, due to the importance of its secondary function, as a toll bridge. For centuries the local lords and bishops were responsible for its upkeep, in exchange for the right to levy tolls on travellers using it to cross the river.

Today it is one of France's most popular tourist attractions  and of course it is an UNESCO Heritage site.  But then of course what isn't an UNESCO Heritage site in France.

Farmer's Market in Uzès

We then went to Uzès, where the weekly market was taking place. It was filled with fresh cheese, fruit, vegetables and meat.

The circular streets around the historical center were once walls that protected a Medieval castle. The ancient center houses Le Duché, a medieval castle with four towers, the lovely Place aux Herbes where the market takes place It also has multiple terrace cafés and surrounding arcades, and the tall Fenestrelle tower at the cathedral is  fashioned after the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Uzès is the home to the Duke of Uzès and their title has been in place since 1088AD making it the premier title in the peerage of France, coming right after the Kings sons known as the Princes of the blood. The Duke of Uzès lives in Le Duché in the centre of the village.

In the afternoon Marg went shopping in Avignon and I went sightseeing.  She didn’t find anything that was of interest to her in her travels.  I went to the Rocher des Dome which is a garden next to the Pope’s Palace that has outstanding views of Avignon and the surrounding area.

Pont d'Avignon

Tonight for dinner we had a seafood buffet with lobster stew, scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and sea bass, just to name a few of the dishes.

After dinner there was the traditional staff talent show.  Here is a suggestion to the cruise director, cross dressing butlers are neither shocking nor funny any longer.  There is a reason why the staff is not on Broadway.  They are not professional entertainers.  I know they are trying their hardest to entertain us but .....

October 13 - Eating with the Pope

Our first stop in the morning was Châtneauf  du Pape, which was the summer residence of the Popes during their reign from Avignon.  This village is home to 2,100 people.  The retail stores in the village are almost entirely devoted to the wine and the wine culture.

During the 14^th century Pope Clement V vacated Rome because of political strife.  The Pope chose the Provence area of France to be his new home and he settled in Avignon and this became the seat of Catholic power for the next 70 years.

With the departure of the popes the residence became much too big and expensive to maintain. The captain in charge of the village's defence lived in the castle but there was no permanent garrison and most of the buildings were allowed to deteriorate. In the 16th century during the Wars of Religion, the Huguenots occupied Châteauneuf for several months. In March 1563, they pillaged the village and set fire to the church and parts of the castle including the apartments of the pope.

During the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, the ruined buildings of the castle was used as a source of stone for the construction of houses in the village. The community also used the stone to repair the ramparts

Now this region, with its three thousand hectares of vineyards, produces some the world’s most popular wines.  The wine classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC is produced from grapes grown in the commune of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as in portions of the four adjoining communes. Unlike wine from the northern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC permits thirteen different varieties of grape in red wine but the blend must be predominantly Grenache.  In 2010 there were 320 producers. The total annual production is around 13 million bottles of wine of which 95 percent is red.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a humid subtropical climate with moderate rainfall year-round. July and August are the hottest months with average daily maximum temperatures of around 30 °C.  The village is often subject to a strong wind, the mistral, that blows from the northern Alps.

We went to wine tasting at one of the wine boutiques where we had three wines. The lady in charge of the tasting provided a very informative session on how to read a wine label from France, because it is very different than the information you would find on a Canadian wine label. We had one white and two red wines.  We both agreed that only the 2006 red blend was any good. Unfortunately with LCBO tariffs and shipping, the cost of a bottle would be about $180.  

Châtneauf  du Pape

We then sailed from Châtneauf –du-Pape to Avignon.  Avignon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a lot of old and picturesque squared dotted throughout the old town of Avignon. These range from the wide and open Place de l'Horloge and Place du Palais to small, isolated squares, some just a short, tree-lined street.

Place de l'Horloge in Avignon is a long square in front of the Hotel de Ville and the Opera, with terrace cafés along both sides and a carrousel at the end of the square. This square is packed with people. Place d'Horloge leads to the Place du Palais and the Palace of the Popes.

Avignon town hall clock tower was built in the town square in 1471.

Place du Palais, the large square in front of the Palais des Papes is easy to find, and an entertaining place to wait. It's a very large, open square, often with street entertainers.  During the 14th century this square was much smaller, with the houses pressing up close to the Popes' Palace. In 1404, Benoit XIII had the houses razed and the twisty little streets cleared out, fearing a second siege of his palace and wanting a clear field of fire.

It is a memorable site as you sail down the Rhone River and see the Pope’s Palace.  It is a enormous and imposing structure that dominates the river bank.  The boated stopped at the famous Pont D’Avignon, where we had a small cocktail party with local Provence food.  Marg brought me some salami and cheese to eat.  Only after I had the salami did she tell me that is was mule meat.

The Palace of the Popes is the biggest Gothic palace in the world. There are 15,000 square meters of living space, which is the equivalent of four Gothic cathedrals. This palace stands as a important symbol of the church’s influence throughout the western world in the 14th century. Construction was started in 1335 and was completed in less than twenty years under the leadership PopeBenedict XII and his successor Clement VI. Six papal conclaves were held in the palace.

The Palais is actually made up of two buildings: the old Palais of Benedict XII which sits on the Rock of Doms, and the new Palais of Clement VI, the most extravagant of the Avignon popes. It seems that each Pope made an addition to the palace in order to prove their authority and importance. 

The Palais became obsolete when the papacy wanted to return to Rome. The hope of reuniting Christians, along with peace in the Papal States in Italy, made the case of returning stronger. Added to that was the strong conviction of both Urban V and Gregory XI that the seat of the papacy could only be at the tomb of St Peter.

The Palais is today is primarily a tourist attraction, attracting around 650,000 visitors per year putting it regularly in the top ten most visited attractions in France.

The rain has cleared but the wind has really started to blow.  They call it the Mistral wind, which is a strong, cold, northwesterly wind that blows from southern France into the northern Mediterranean, with sustained winds often exceeding forty kilometers per hour.

Early in the evening we took a tour of Pope’s Palace.  As you would expect the size of the rooms are huge.  Unfortunately they have not been restored to their former glory and with the exception of two rooms are very plain.  When we entered the chapel, our guide started to sing and her voice filled the mammoth hall with rich tones.  The acoustics were outstanding.

Pope's Palace in Avignon

We then had one of those memorable evenings that will stay with you for a lifetime.  We had a excellent dinner in the Papal Grand Audience room.  Along with the food we had live classical music provided by a string quartet .  Eating veal and drinking fine wine under these gothic arches and thinking that a Pope ate here 700 years ago is almost beyond comprehension.

October 12 – Music, Caves and Fish Soup

Entrance to Viviers apartment

We started the day off by walking through the village of Viviers and up a hill to the smallest cathedral in France.  I had forgotten that cathedrals by their association with a bishop are different from churches, so it came as quite a shock when we arrived and it was still huge.

Viviers is an interesting old village of 4,000 inhabitants, There have been people living for 2,500 years.  It actually consists of two distinct towns, each enclosed within its own ramparts.  The lower town was for the craftsmen and labourers and the top of the hill was for nobility and the clergy.

One of the nicest building in Viviers is known as the Maison des Chevaliers or House of Knights.  It was built by Noël Albert, a wealthy salt trader and merchant who converted to Protestantism in the late fifteen hundreds. During France's Wars of Religion he led an attack that destroyed the wooden interior of the cathedral. He was ultimately captured and convicted for this attack.  For his crimes he was executed by being drawn and quartered and then just to make sure he was dead, he was beheaded.

It is unfortunate but of all the medieval villages that we have visited, I think this one is in the worst shape.  A lot of the buildings are vacant and in need of restoration.  I guess the village has no money or has not received any federal grants for this type of public works.

Valery Imbernon recital 

While we were in the cathedral we had a wonderful organ recital by Valéry Imbernon.  He played on what he called an “expressive” organ and it filled the entire cathedral.  You can really appreciate the acoustics of these old churches when you hear a concert like this.

View of Viviers from cathedral

We just got back to the boat in time before the expected heavy rains arrived. We heard that they were expecting floods in some parts of southern France along the Rhone River.

Saint Marcel caves

In the afternoon, I went on a bus tour to the St. Marcel caves and the Ardeche River Gorge.   The caves are massive underground caverns and colourful water basins that are the result of eroded limestone caused by the Ardeche River flowing through this grotto more than a million years ago.  There are many interestingly shaped stalactites and stalagmites. This is also the site of some of the famous cave paintings by prehistoric man.  Unfortunately we were not able to see these paintings as they are in a protected area many kilometers from where the tour takes place.

Limestone Arch over Ardeche River

After we visited the caves we went through the Ardeche National Park to view the river gorge. Unfortunately it was very foggy and it rained most of the way.  We did stop a couple of times to see the vistas and from what we could see they were spectacular.  At one time the gorge was deeper than the Grand Canyon in the USA.  This is a very popular vacation spot for the French in the summer.  Along the road you can see many camping sites and trailer parks.  Canoeing is a very popular sport in this area.

Marg stayed on board and attended a French cooking class.  She now knows how to make fish soup and ratatouille.  The boat’s head chef was the instructor and Marg thought he was very good, but that he used way too much salt.  Apparently the secret to a good Bouillabaisse is the addition of all your fresh vegetables and adding spices to your own personal taste.

For dinner we both had lamb with Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine.  The theme of the night was the special dishes of the top French chefs.  As good as it was, we were disappointed that Scenic didn’t recognize Canadian Thanksgiving with a turkey dinner.  After all, Canadians make up at least twenty percent of the passengers.

After dinner in the lounge we were entertained by Véroniquede Zan, who was a singer who specialized in French songs from the jazz age by artist such as Edith Piaf. She had a strong voice and a good stage presence.  During one song, she got John up on stage and sat him down in chair.  She then proceeded to serenade him with a very sexy song and dance. Needless to say he loved it.

When I went to bed, I fell asleep without looking at the bed.  The maid had put a chocolate square on my pillow and somehow I missed it.  It slid down on to the mattress so that in the morning when I awoke my back was covered in the gooey melted chocolate bar.

During the night we sailed to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

October 11 - Sailing down the Rhone

Statue to M. Seguin

The most famous resident of Tournon is Marc Seguin.  He designed and built the first metal cable suspension bridge in Europe.  This bridge spanned the Rhone River in Tournon.  There is a plaque in his honour on the Eiffel Tower in Paris.  Equally famous for his engineering designs must have been the fact he had 18 children with two wives.  Of interest to us is the fact he is a distance relative of a good friend of ours Gilles Seguin of Ottawa. 

Suspension bridge designed by Seguin

This morning we went to a wine tasting in Tournon Castle.  The lady in charge of the tasting was an instructor in the prestigious Association de la Sommellerie Internationale.  She presented three different wines from the hills around Tournon.  All the wines were made from the Shiraz grapes. Most of us agreed that the best was a blend from the St. Georges area that she had blended herself.

Tournon Castle is large and its elevated position gives it an imposing appearance from the Rhone River.  Built between the fourteenth and sixteenth century, its architecture reflects the changes in styles between the medieval period and the beginning of the Renaissance.

The lords of Tournon lived in this castle. An inventory established in the seventeenth century, when the last descendant died, shows the importance of property possessed by that family. There was a library of some 800 volumes, hundreds of paintings, antique medals, marble statues and busts, tapestries and other objects many of which still are on display in the castle rooms.

Later the castle was turned into a prison.

On way back to the boat, we stopped in a local flea market in the town square. There didn't appear to anything that you couldn't find in any local flea market in Canada.

Our favourite waiter’s name is Ricardo.  We've been following him around like teen-aged groupies.  He is a thirty year old from Portugal.  He has provided us with tremendous service and has a great personality.  Sue and Dave have joked with him that he should have been their son and this has been on-going joke for the entire cruise. Joan is still not feeling very well, so Ricardo asked the kitchen to send her a hot drink of lemon juice, honey and garlic.  He said it was an old home remedy that had worked for him.

Sabina is his assistant.  She is a beautiful young lady with an infectious smile.  Our wine glasses are rarely empty with her around. Actually all the staff has been great.

Sue, Marg and Joan enjoying a drink

During the afternoon we sailed from Tournon on our way to Viviers. During the cruise, John & Ellen hosted a party in their cabin where we sampled different local liqueurs.  There was a peach liqueur, a chestnut liqueur and a cassis cherry liqueur.   It was way too sweet for my tastes.

Ellen, Dave and John enjoying a drink

The geography has continued to be very mountainous but the river valley is quite wide and plush. The hills are filled with vineyards.

For dinner tonight we both had Duck a la Orange.  For dessert we had Crepe Suzette.

October 10 - Tournon

Ruins on the Rhone River

We left our dock in Lyon in the middle of the night and set sail for Tournon.  When we woke we were in the middle of Rhone Alps.  Although these hills are not as spectacular as the Swiss Alps, they still are very impressive.  I would say they are the same height as the Laurentians in Western Quebec.   

On the opposite bank of the Rhone river from Tournon is the Hermitage AOC.   Hermitage, the rich Syrah-based red from the northern Rhone Valley, is one of France's most enduringly prestigious wines. Hermitage wines sell for 70€ locally and can sell for over $200 in the LCBO.

The prestige of Hermitage wine can be clearly traced back to the 17th Century, when it was an official wine in the French courts of King Louis XIII and his successor Louis XIV, the 'Sun King'. Not just the monarchs' preferred wine, it was also used as a gift for visiting dignitaries and foreign royalty.

The whole of the granite hillside where the Hermitage vineyards are planted faces south, meaning that the grapes benefit from the maximum amount of sunlight throughout the day. The topsoil here is relatively thin compared to that of the valley floor. As intense Rhone sunshine warms the hillside during the day, the granite bedrock stores this heat, encouraging the grapes to ripen more fully than those in less-exposed sites.

Ardéche Valley Gourge

In the afternoon we took a steam train through the Ardéche Valley.  The trip is very similar to the Wakefield train in Gatineau.  During this 33 Km ride you get to see wonderful vistas as you wind your way up and down the mountain gorges.

At the end of the line they have a turntable, where one person can turn the entire steam locomotive around in a 180 degree direction.

Ardéche Valley Gourge

View from Tournon Castle

After the train trip, we walked through the small village of Tournon and went to their castle, where we had what Scenic cruises calls their Sundowner reception.  The terrace, where the party took place, offers stunning views of the Rhone River.

Rhone River at Tournon

Joan is still feeling like a bag of poop. Ricardo, who is our favourite waiter had the kitchen mix up a cocktail of lemon juice, garlic and honey for her.  We're not sure if it will work but it has to be better than nothing.  John is starting to have a sore throat, so we're hoping we can avoid it. This cold is starting to infect a lot of passengers.

For dinner tonight we had an invitation to the exclusive La Rive table with the rest of our group.  This is where we had a six course dinner with each course paired with a different wine.  The service is white glove and it the whole presentation is first class.

Here is the menu.

We both agreed that was one of the best meals we've had in a long, long time.  John said it was "good tucker".  I have no idea what that means but I think it must be a compliment in Aussie.

Later in the lounge, we think we got one of the staff in trouble.  We invited Danella to sit down with our group while she took our drink order.  Later Dave heard the head waiter giving her a lecture.  I guess that somehow, she broke their service protocol.  I can’t imagine how being extra friendly to the passengers is a crime, but apparently that is the case.

October 9 - Lyon

We have an American lady on board who has the most annoying Brooklyn accent.  She is very loud and sounds like every Jewish mother in a TV situation comedy.   If it weren’t for the fact that she died last year I would swear she was Carol Ann Susi, who played Howard Wolowitz's mom on the Big Bang Theory.  Every time I pass her in the halls, I start laughing to myself because I just start hearing that voice in my head.

Howard's Mom

This morning we went on a tour of the Fourvière and Saint George districts of Lyon.   These are the older sections of the Lyon.  Fourvière is on a hill that offers spectacular views of Lyon and the Saint George quarter is part of Vieux-Lyon with many secret passageways and buildings that are several centuries old.

The main attractions of Fourvière are the Roman ruins and Notre Dame Basilica.  This church was built about one hundred and fifty years ago.  There is a rivalry between Lyon and Paris and Lyon built Notre Dame as a answer to Paris's Sacré-Cœur on Montmatre.

The exterior of Notre Dame has been compared to an elephant that has been placed on its back.  The interior with its gold mosaics lining the walls and decorated roof is one the most beautiful churches we've ever been in.

Notre Dame Basilica

Fourvière is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who saved the city of Lyon from the bubonic plague, the Black Death, that was sweeping Europe in 1643. Each year in early December Lyon thanks the Virgin for saving the city by lighting candles throughout the city, in what is called the Fête des Lumières or the Festival of Lights. The Virgin is also credited with saving the city a number of other times, such as from a Cholera epidemic in 1832, and a Prussian invasion in 1870.

Notre Dame Basilica

Marg entering a traboules

We then proceeded down to Saint George.  It is another designated UNESCO Heritage Site.  This district is a now a trendy restaurant area for Lyon.  The most unique feature of this area is the traboules. Traboules are secret passageways that act as both an entrance way to apartments and connecting alleyways between streets.

In the afternoon we found out that Joan has come down with a sore throat.  There is something going around on the boat as several people we've noticed are coughing and sneezing.

Cobblestone lanes in Perouges

Later this afternoon we went to the walled medieval village of Perouges.  Perouges is perched on a hill outside of Lyon.  It has been determined that humans have occupied this hill since 2500 BC. At one time was a strategic military post that controlled trade between Lyon and the Savoy region of France.    Between the fifteenth century and the late eighteenth  century the main industry in the village was weaving hemp. The industrial revolution destroyed the village, so that at the beginning of the twentieth century there was only one family left living there.  Recently several French films and TV series have been filmed here.  There are currently about 80 people living in this stone walled village and its school is still in use.  

The cobblestoned streets are extremely treacherous to walk on.  They are totally uneven and slippery.  I don’t know how Sue with her bad ankle survived.


















For dinner tonight we had Beef Bourguignon.  I also had a clear soup made with fennel and garlic.  Our wine tonight was a Pinot Noir from the Burgundy region.

We had a local singer for the entertainment tonight.  Marg was coming into the lounge and she decided that she want to dance, so she ended up having a quick dance with the singer, while he was in the middle of his act.  I certainly couldn’t compete with his smooth dance moves.  He seemed to love it.  Later in the evening Marg and Ellen danced with Kirk, our cruise director.