Tuesday, October 13, 2015

October 12 – Music, Caves and Fish Soup

Entrance to Viviers apartment
We started the day off by walking through the village of Viviers and up a hill to the smallest cathedral in France.  I had forgotten that cathedrals by their association with a bishop are different from churches, so it came as quite a shock when we arrived and it was still huge.

Viviers is an interesting old village of 4,000 inhabitants, There have been people living for 2,500 years.  It actually consists of two distinct towns, each enclosed within its own ramparts.  The lower town was for the craftsmen and labourers and the top of the hill was for nobility and the clergy.

One of the nicest building in Viviers is known as the Maison des Chevaliers or House of Knights.  It was built by Noël Albert, a wealthy salt trader and merchant who converted to Protestantism in the late fifteen hundreds. During France's Wars of Religion he led an attack that destroyed the wooden interior of the cathedral. He was ultimately captured and convicted for this attack.  For his crimes he was executed by being drawn and quartered and then just to make sure he was dead, he was beheaded.

It is unfortunate but of all the medieval villages that we have visited, I think this one is in the worst shape.  A lot of the buildings are vacant and in need of restoration.  I guess the village has no money or has not received any federal grants for this type of public works.

Valery Imbernon recital 
While we were in the cathedral we had a wonderful organ recital by Valéry Imbernon.  He played on what he called an “expressive” organ and it filled the entire cathedral.  You can really appreciate the acoustics of these old churches when you hear a concert like this.














View of Viviers from cathedral





















We just got back to the boat in time before the expected heavy rains arrived. We heard that they were expecting floods in some parts of southern France along the Rhone River.

Saint Marcel caves
In the afternoon, I went on a bus tour to the St. Marcel caves and the Ardeche River Gorge.   The caves are massive underground caverns and colourful water basins that are the result of eroded limestone caused by the Ardeche River flowing through this grotto more than a million years ago.  There are many interestingly shaped stalactites and stalagmites. This is also the site of some of the famous cave paintings by prehistoric man.  Unfortunately we were not able to see these paintings as they are in a protected area many kilometers from where the tour takes place.









Limestone Arch over Ardeche River
After we visited the caves we went through the Ardeche National Park to view the river gorge. Unfortunately it was very foggy and it rained most of the way.  We did stop a couple of times to see the vistas and from what we could see they were spectacular.  At one time the gorge was deeper than the Grand Canyon in the USA.  This is a very popular vacation spot for the French in the summer.  Along the road you can see many camping sites and trailer parks.  Canoeing is a very popular sport in this area.









Marg stayed on board and attended a French cooking class.  She now knows how to make fish soup and ratatouille.  The boat’s head chef was the instructor and Marg thought he was very good, but that he used way too much salt.  Apparently the secret to a good Bouillabaisse is the addition of all your fresh vegetables and adding spices to your own personal taste.

For dinner we both had lamb with Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine.  The theme of the night was the special dishes of the top French chefs.  As good as it was, we were disappointed that Scenic didn’t recognize Canadian Thanksgiving with a turkey dinner.  After all, Canadians make up at least twenty percent of the passengers.

After dinner in the lounge we were entertained by Véroniquede Zan, who was a singer who specialized in French songs from the jazz age by artist such as Edith Piaf. She had a strong voice and a good stage presence.  During one song, she got John up on stage and sat him down in chair.  She then proceeded to serenade him with a very sexy song and dance. Needless to say he loved it.

When I went to bed, I fell asleep without looking at the bed.  The maid had put a chocolate square on my pillow and somehow I missed it.  It slid down on to the mattress so that in the morning when I awoke my back was covered in the gooey melted chocolate bar.

During the night we sailed to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.


No comments:

Post a Comment