Our first stop in the morning was Châtneauf du Pape, which was the summer residence of the Popes during their reign from Avignon. This village is home to 2,100 people. The retail stores in the village are almost entirely devoted to the wine and the wine culture.
During the 14th century Pope Clement V vacated Rome because of political strife. The Pope chose the Provence area of France to be his new home and he settled in Avignon and this became the seat of Catholic power for the next 70 years.
During the 14th century Pope Clement V vacated Rome because of political strife. The Pope chose the Provence area of France to be his new home and he settled in Avignon and this became the seat of Catholic power for the next 70 years.
With the departure of the popes the residence became much too big and expensive to maintain. The captain in charge of the village's defence lived in the castle but there was no permanent garrison and most of the buildings were allowed to deteriorate. In the 16th century during the Wars of Religion, the Huguenots occupied Châteauneuf for several months. In March 1563, they pillaged the village and set fire to the church and parts of the castle including the apartments of the pope.
During the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, the ruined buildings of the castle was used as a source of stone for the construction of houses in the village. The community also used the stone to repair the ramparts
Now this region, with its three thousand hectares of vineyards, produces some the world’s most popular wines. The wine classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC is produced from grapes grown in the commune of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as in portions of the four adjoining communes. Unlike wine from the northern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC permits thirteen different varieties of grape in red wine but the blend must be predominantly Grenache. In 2010 there were 320 producers. The total annual production is around 13 million bottles of wine of which 95 percent is red.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a humid subtropical climate with moderate rainfall year-round. July and August are the hottest months with average daily maximum temperatures of around 30 °C. The village is often subject to a strong wind, the mistral, that blows from the northern Alps.
We went to wine tasting at one of the wine boutiques where we had three wines. The lady in charge of the tasting provided a very informative session on how to read a wine label from France, because it is very different than the information you would find on a Canadian wine label. We had one white and two red wines. We both agreed that only the 2006 red blend was any good. Unfortunately with LCBO tariffs and shipping, the cost of a bottle would be about $180.
During the 17th century, and perhaps earlier, the ruined buildings of the castle was used as a source of stone for the construction of houses in the village. The community also used the stone to repair the ramparts
Now this region, with its three thousand hectares of vineyards, produces some the world’s most popular wines. The wine classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC is produced from grapes grown in the commune of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as in portions of the four adjoining communes. Unlike wine from the northern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC permits thirteen different varieties of grape in red wine but the blend must be predominantly Grenache. In 2010 there were 320 producers. The total annual production is around 13 million bottles of wine of which 95 percent is red.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a humid subtropical climate with moderate rainfall year-round. July and August are the hottest months with average daily maximum temperatures of around 30 °C. The village is often subject to a strong wind, the mistral, that blows from the northern Alps.
We went to wine tasting at one of the wine boutiques where we had three wines. The lady in charge of the tasting provided a very informative session on how to read a wine label from France, because it is very different than the information you would find on a Canadian wine label. We had one white and two red wines. We both agreed that only the 2006 red blend was any good. Unfortunately with LCBO tariffs and shipping, the cost of a bottle would be about $180.
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| Châtneauf du Pape |
We then sailed from Châtneauf –du-Pape to Avignon. Avignon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a lot of old and picturesque squared dotted throughout the old town of Avignon. These range from the wide and open Place de l'Horloge and Place du Palais to small, isolated squares, some just a short, tree-lined street.
Place de l'Horloge in Avignon is a long square in front of the Hotel de Ville and the Opera, with terrace cafés along both sides and a carrousel at the end of the square. This square is packed with people. Place d'Horloge leads to the Place du Palais and the Palace of the Popes.
Avignon town hall clock tower was built in the town square in 1471.
Place du Palais, the large square in front of the Palais des Papes is easy to find, and an entertaining place to wait. It's a very large, open square, often with street entertainers. During the 14th century this square was much smaller, with the houses pressing up close to the Popes' Palace. In 1404, Benoit XIII had the houses razed and the twisty little streets cleared out, fearing a second siege of his palace and wanting a clear field of fire.
Place de l'Horloge in Avignon is a long square in front of the Hotel de Ville and the Opera, with terrace cafés along both sides and a carrousel at the end of the square. This square is packed with people. Place d'Horloge leads to the Place du Palais and the Palace of the Popes.
Avignon town hall clock tower was built in the town square in 1471.
Place du Palais, the large square in front of the Palais des Papes is easy to find, and an entertaining place to wait. It's a very large, open square, often with street entertainers. During the 14th century this square was much smaller, with the houses pressing up close to the Popes' Palace. In 1404, Benoit XIII had the houses razed and the twisty little streets cleared out, fearing a second siege of his palace and wanting a clear field of fire.
It is a memorable site as you sail down the Rhone River and see the Pope’s Palace. It is a enormous and imposing structure that dominates the river bank. The boated stopped at the famous Pont D’Avignon, where we had a small cocktail party with local Provence food. Marg brought me some salami and cheese to eat. Only after I had the salami did she tell me that is was mule meat.
The Palace of the Popes is the biggest Gothic palace in the world. There are 15,000 square meters of living space, which is the equivalent of four Gothic cathedrals. This palace stands as a important symbol of the church’s influence throughout the western world in the 14th century. Construction was started in 1335 and was completed in less than twenty years under the leadership PopeBenedict XII and his successor Clement VI. Six papal conclaves were held in the palace.
The Palais is actually made up of two buildings: the old Palais of Benedict XII which sits on the Rock of Doms, and the new Palais of Clement VI, the most extravagant of the Avignon popes. It seems that each Pope made an addition to the palace in order to prove their authority and importance.
The Palais became obsolete when the papacy wanted to return to Rome. The hope of reuniting Christians, along with peace in the Papal States in Italy, made the case of returning stronger. Added to that was the strong conviction of both Urban V and Gregory XI that the seat of the papacy could only be at the tomb of St Peter.
The Palais is today is primarily a tourist attraction, attracting around 650,000 visitors per year putting it regularly in the top ten most visited attractions in France.
The rain has cleared but the wind has really started to
blow. They call it the Mistral wind,
which is a strong, cold, northwesterly wind that blows from southern France
into the northern Mediterranean, with sustained winds often exceeding forty
kilometers per hour.
Early in the evening we took a tour of Pope’s Palace. As you would
expect the size of the rooms are huge.
Unfortunately they have not been restored to their former glory and with
the exception of two rooms are very plain.
When we entered the chapel, our guide started to sing and her voice filled
the mammoth hall with rich tones. The acoustics
were outstanding.
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| Pope's Palace in Avignon |
We then had one of those memorable evenings that will stay with you for a lifetime. We had a excellent dinner in the Papal Grand Audience room. Along with the food we had live classical music provided by a string quartet . Eating veal and drinking fine wine under these gothic arches and thinking that a Pope ate here 700 years ago is almost beyond comprehension.
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